Archive for December, 2010

Sita Schutt at Krousar Thmey

Tuesday, December 28th, 2010
Khmer Braille

Khmer Braille

December 5th

Krousar Thmey, like many other NGOs in Cambodia, was founded by a foreigner – in this case Benoit Duchâteau-Arminjon, who was jolted into action twenty years ago when he witnessed the plight of Cambodian children at refugee camps on the Thai border. He gave up the job he had just started in Bangkok  and founded ‘The New Family’. One of the children he was helping was blind, and asked him for help. This is why Krousar Thmey first pioneered what has become an outstanding programme for deaf and blind children in Cambodia. They also developed and now publish Khmer Braille.

Because the Cambodian Prime Minister is blind in one eye, this NGO in particular caught his attention and as a result, Krousar Thmey has gained support at a national level and is instrumental in helping to create government policy for the disabled.

To be disabled in Cambodia, as is also the case in India, is often seen as a sign of punishment for faults committed in a previous life. Prior to Krousar Thmey, no facility existed to help disabled children in Cambodia.

I met with the new Director of KT, a Cambodian,  brought up and educated in France, Auray Aun. His father, who forsaw what would happen had led his young family out of the country by foot before the Khmer Rouge took over. Like many other Cambodians who escaped the genocide, Auray always wanted to come back, work and help to reconstruct his country.

Krousar Thmey School for the Deaf and BlindAuray takes me to see the recently built school for deaf and blind children. It is made up of several large buildings and is  painted bright yellow. It cost around a million dollars to construct. There is the sound of plinking and plonking which comes from a faraway music room.

We go to visit  the classrooms. In the first one, I see one teacher and two students. They are deaf and she is teaching them to speak. In order for them to understand the sound, she does things like tap the back of their hand, blow on the skin of their forearm and I suppose, generally create the physical acoustic context for the right sound to be produced. After 3 attempts, the little boy gets it right. She is very patient and the scene is mesmerizing.

In a second classroom, in total silence, a teacher is drawing on the board and communicating through sign language. It is a balletic experience to watch all the student’s eyes and their hand movements  – like trees  waving and rustling in a breeze. The teacher is an ex-student of Krousar Thmey and also deaf.

Girl, age 7, learning Braille
Girl, age 7, learning Braille

The classrooms for the blind are also very quiet. The only sound that permeates the school is still from the elusive music room.  It is rather soothing and I wonder if the deaf children can pick up on the vibrations being transmitted. I am now in a first grade class for Braille and the students are learning their letters. In the next door classroom they are learning to count, using an abacus.maths class for the blind

The school also has an IT room and I get a demonstration of JAWS, the software that can talk a blind person through all the manoeuvres required to use a computer and to get online. My interlocutor is so on-the-ball, he belongs in a thriller. I am beginning to feel a bit speechless – standing in a room full of alert students, while the disconnected, American-accented voice of JAWS periodically voices instructions like  ‘press enter.’  Auray quickly takes me to see the printing room.

The school also ‘translates’ and produces books in Braille – often one text book requires the equivalent of 3 text books for one Braille translation. KT print around 4000 text books a year.

We leave the school and Auray drives me back to central Phnom Pehn through afternoon traffic. Later I listen to Benoit, their founder speaking on French radio, and it is clear that this is all excellent work done to a high standard.

Krousar ’s other programmes include care for streetchildren and promoting the arts as a means of creating a cultural context for children who have been disadvantaged by birth or circumstance. They directly benefit 3,500 children, which means, including families or extended families, around 10,000 beneficiaries.

The radio interview:  http://www.krousar-thmey.org/BenoitEurope1.mp3

Anna-Louisa Psarras in Phnom Penh; Krousar Yoeung and Cambodian Living Arts

Wednesday, December 15th, 2010

15th December

I awake for my last full day in Cambodia in Siem Reap. I vault into a tuk tuk at 6am and buzz towards the airport edging ever closer to Phnom Pehn for my final day of meetings. Yet again, the sky cracks into schizophrenic rainfall. I clutch my luggage to my chest beneath the flimsy canopy of the tuktuk.

175I land in Phnom Pehn at 9:30 and zoom to the guesthouse to drop my luggage before bouncing back into a tuktuk and speeding off to the North West of Phnom Pehn to meet with Krousar Yoeung. Sandra spent the day visiting their project work on 2nd December, but we have arranged another short meeting with their Executive Director, Ky Samphy.

She is a charming lady. Tiny. Elegant. Graceful. She has an air of fragility and determination about her, conflicting qualities that somehow compliment each other in her. She weaves between Khmer, French and English as she explains the work of Krousar Yoeung, highlighting both the successes and the challenges they face. We already have a full report on them and Sandra has visited their work in action so this meeting can be relaxed.

Ky captivates me when I ask her what drew her to teaching. She is passionate about education; preschool education in particular. Her husband was a teacher. He was captured by the Khmer Rouge and taken to a rural work camp during Pol Pot’s reign. He never returned.

Separated from him by war, she was placed in another camp under the Khmer Rouge’s land reform programme. Like so many others, she was starved here and forced to work the land. She gave birth to a daughter here. The baby died in the camp. So too did Ky’s sister.

She tells me she watched the birds; was inspired by their eating banana tree roots. She imitated them to survive: And survive she did. She had no alternative: By then she was responsible for her own children as well as her orphaned nephews and nieces: 15 children in total.

Hearing her story, I understand the interplay between her fragility and her determination. I also understand her commitment to children and teaching. To reversing the brutal legacy of the Khmer Rouge and their destruction of the educational system she and her husband had nurtured before Pol Pot’s grim reign. Her work at Krousar Yoeung is honouring a commitment that cost so many their lives.

The educational system has still not recovered, though it is on its way. The tiny, gentle, courageous and determined lady standing before me is very much a part of the recovery process. I leave moved, continuing south into Central Phnom Pehn for my next meeting.

I arrive an hour later at the studios of Cambodian Living Arts where I am met by Phloen, CLA’s charismatic Director: He is also the Entrepreunerial founder of Artisans D’Angkor, one of Cambodia’s most successful art companies.  He leads me up to a mezannine music studio to discuss the work of CLA.

The organisation was founded in 1998 by Arn Chorn-Pond, a Cambodian American refugee who was forced to become a child soldier of the Khmer Rouge at 14. He survived his experiences by playing the flute.

Following his participation in the “Children of War” in the early 80’s, Arn travelled the world speaking about his experiences under the Khmer Rouge, meeting many eminent people as he travelled.

The Khmer Rouge not only destroyed Cambodia’s rich educational legacy; they also eradicated a its cultural and artistic identity. Arn returned to Cambodia in 1995, vowing to restore Cambodia’s artistic heritage by seeking out surviving masters of music and dance to breathe life back into Cambodia’s fragile heritage.

The product was Cambodian Living Arts. Their four core programs—teaching, performing, recording, and new commissions—support 16 master musicians and nearly 300 students and assistant teachers to generate income, inspire leadership and enable the preservation and celebration of Cambodia’s heritage.

193It is a simple, fascinating and noble mission enforced by a dedicated, talented team. I leave the centre to visit the “Building” where a workshop is being held in preparation for a performance tomorrow night.  “Building” is also the subject of Alnoor’s film and blog.

I hop onto a motorbike outside the studio and we speed off, whizzing the wrong way around a large roundabout, taking on the oncoming traffic, before reaching an emergency stop outside the “Building”. We climb 4 flights of stairs and wind down a dark passageway before reaching a scruffy, cramped room teeming with teenagers and performers. I feel like I am in a Cambodian version of “Fame”. I am led to a corner where I sit down before the rehearsal starts.

For the next hour, I am privileged to witness traditional dancing and song by children and young people who are engaged with CLA. I hear from them how CLA has contributed to them and their lives. Without exception, everyone I speak to has become a professional performer, something they are clear would not have happened had it not been for CLA. It is massively inspiring and I leave two hour later with a spring in my step to return to the hotel to pack.

What an extraordinary day it has been. Today more than any other here has been marked for me by what was destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. But beyond that, it has highlighted an unflinching spirit of revival and the courage of people in the face of great adversity to recreate what has been lost. It has highlighted a tremendous pride and determination to regenerate what could have been lost forever, were it not for others having the conviction and vision to stand up for what they believe to be important.

Murray Shanks in Phnom Penh at the “Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia for the Prosecution of Crimes Committed during the Period of Democratic Kampuchea”

Sunday, December 12th, 2010

12th December 2010

The extraordinarily named “Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia for the Prosecution of Crimes Committed during the Period of Democratic Kampuchea” was established under a 2003 treaty between the UN and Cambodia.  It is a hybrid court containing Cambodian and international judges funded by the UN set up specifically to try the surviving Khmer Rouge leaders.  The court is housed in a group of buildings (including a holding prison for those who have been indicted) located at the end of a strange finger of territory that is part of the city of Phnom Penh.  It is in this finger because the treaty required the court to be sited within the city of Phnom Penh while the most convenient place for it was just outside the existing city limits and so the dilemma was solved by extending those city limits.

Last Friday I took a taxi through the seemingly endless suburbs of Phnom Penh into that finger of territory to visit the court with Ms Chan, one of the girls rescued from an abusive orphanage in Battanbang in 2006 by the remarkable Tara Winkler.  She is a very bright girl who is now at a good high school in Phnom Penh and she is keen to become a lawyer one day.

Friday was World Human Rights Day and a national holiday in Cambodia so ironically only the UN appointed international staff were working at the court.  We were met by Lars Olsen, the Legal Communications Officer, and Judge Rowan Downing, who spent two hours showing us round and explaining the working of the court.  Judge Downing is an Australian steeped in the common sense of the English common law but experienced too in the ways of international courts and the French system of criminal justice (on which the Cambodian is based).

We were shown the two court rooms, the vast public gallery, the judges’ retiring room, the holding cells below the court, and the court offices.  The whole thing is a vast undertaking: the court operates in three languages (Khmer, English and French) so everything has to be simultaneously translated; it has the most extensive and sophisticated electronic communications system in a court that I have seen; there are hundreds of thousands of documents to deal with; up to seven judges at a time hear applications and trials; the French system involves the judges being responsible for the whole investigative and trial process so there are pre-trial, trial and appeal chambers; and the court’s statute entitles injured third parties to be heard and to seek compensation (and thousands have sought to do so).

So far only one trial has been completed: that of Kaing Guek Eav (alias “Duch”), the infamous Chairman of the S-21 interrogation unit in Phnom Penh.  In July 2010 the trial chamber produced a 275 page judgment finding Duch guilty of crimes against humanity and grave breaches of the Geneva Conventions and sentenced him to 35 years imprisonment.  Although he co-operated throughout the process and effectively accepted his guilt he is now appealing and seeking to resile from that position.  He therefore continues to be held at the court prison rather than in a regular Cambodian jail.

The next (and possibly last) trial is of four senior Khmer Rouge party members, including Pol Pot’s citizen no 2.  The trial proper will start around April 2011 so the pre-trial chamber in which Judge Downing sits is busy at the moment with many issues that are arising before the cases are ready for trial.  These four defendants (three men, one woman) are now old and infirm, a feature which adds to the logistical nightmare of holding the trials, not least because of the frequent need for rest breaks.  The holding cells below the court room not only contain television links to the court room but beds for them to rest on during breaks and a stair lift to get them upstairs to court.

Ms Chan’s reaction on seeing those holding cells was very telling; she was completely amazed to think that Duch had actually been there and that he had been held in such relative comfort.  And she was sure when Judge Downing told us about the necessity for security arrangements in the courtroom to protect Duch from people wanting to take revenge and kill him that she would be among those who wanted to do just that.  The good judge patiently reminded her that even Duch and his comrades were entitled to protection by the law and to a fair trial before they could be considered guilty and worthy of punishment.

Whatever her private thoughts about that message were I found it re-assuring to see that Ms Chan, who was born more than 10 years after the defeat of Pol Pot, cared so much about how her people had suffered at the hands of Duch and his comrades.  It made the whole cumbersome and expensive process seem worthwhile.  As we travelled in silence back to town and I tried to find my way around that 275 page judgement I could sense her sitting beside me wide-eyed at it all and perhaps determined to have her own better and sweeter revenge for her people’s suffering.

Murray Shanks

Alnoor Dewshi: ‘Building’

Sunday, December 12th, 2010

The municipal housing tenement in downtown Phnom Penh’s Tonle Bassac district is known locally simply as “Building”. It makes an improbable tourist destination. Yet from the vantage of a cafe opposite, I witness a series of westerners pulling up in tuk-tuks, jumping out for a snapshot, then retreating to the more prosaic splendor of the Royal Palace, the National Museum, etc. Building has a reputation as a “dark place”.

Built in the 60’s under supervision of Cambodia’s foremost architect Vann Molyvann, it was conceived as a low rent solution in the spirit of “concrete without fear”: a modernist’s dream. Four stories and 325 meters of rhythmic balconies and stone lattice work give it the appearance of an Ottoman fort. In a photo from the late 60’s, it is startlingly beautiful: blistering white, surrounded by gardens, as if advertising Eastern European utopia imagined by Disney rather than Stalin.

building001

Today it has come to represent housing problems rather than solutions. It is teeming with over 3000 people. Billowing laundry and piles of rubble disrupt Building’s form. It is crumbling and unkempt. There are open gashes in the structure and broken iron handrails are lashed together with electrical wire. It feels like a strong gust of wind will raze it to the ground. The ground floor was designed open plan to allow air to ventilate the building, but is now jammed with businesses. There are restaurants, hairdressers, computer repair shops.

Young people sing along to Cambodian MTV style pop in coffee shops. Languid traffic snakes up and down its five stairwells. A night worker sleeps in a hammock strung up between the railings, profiting from the afternoon breeze. Impromptu grocery stalls in the corridors sell fruit, soda, candy and cigarettes. Kids and babies coalesce and scatter like ants. Pot plants, Buddhist offerings and mats of  drying rice leftovers litter the hallways.

On the street, brokers for brothels keep an eye out for trade. Hawkers ply noodles and sugarcane juice. People gamble over chess games, cards games, throwing slipper games, anything in fact… Life sprouts up like weeds out of the cracks disrupting architectural unity for another kind of beauty. This is not what modernists dream.

Building corridor

Building was evacuated by Pol Pot’s regime in 1975 along with the rest of the city’s population in the drive to create a model agrarian society. After the fall of the Khmer Rouge, the newly appointed Minister of Culture allocated the block to house performance artists, since it was adjacent to the National Theater. This beautiful building also had a turbulent history; It survived the civil war, being retained by the Khmer Rouge for official visits and propaganda pageants, only to burn down while undergoing restoration work in 1994.

Despite the absence of the theater, Building retains a working population of musicians, singers and dancers. Naturally, many of the apartments have changed hands or are rented out, bringing to it a diverse make up. The social relations formed are intriguing. Clients of the brothels are known to book local musicians and classic dancers to perform at their weddings. Students at the nearby universities renting rooms here pick up aspects of the underworld gang culture and feed it back to their less adventurous classmates.

The structure is divided into six blocks, each of which has its own subtly distinct atmosphere. Building is in fact a collection of villages. The sex-workers and drug addicts occupy the northern end. To the south are a number of thriving community organisations and NGOs. Aziza teach English to children. The Sa Sa Gallery, founded by a collective of Cambodian up-and-coming young artists, has a project room here where they host talks and exhibitions. There’s a health clinic here. I’ve come to discover there’s a lot of myth-making about this place both from inside and out; Its dark reputation is somewhat exaggerated.

I’m hanging out here with my video camera, recording people’s stories and taking portraits, in an attempt to capture in microcosm what life in Cambodia is like today. The more I see, the more complicated and overwhelming that task seems to be.

In any case, the future of Building is clear. It doesn’t have one. It occupies prime real estate and the area has been dearcated for redevelopment by the government in a climate of speculative land deals. Although the inhabitants command high market prices for these properties [a tiny 2 bedroom flat goes for about $20,000] no-one here seriously expects adequate compensation for relocation. Strong arm tactics were allegedly used to evict residents from Boeng Kak Lake district, and no doubt property developers will have their way here too.

Phnom Penh was once known as the Paris of South East Asia, but it seems there’s little sense of the cultural value of old buildings. Molyvann’s Council of Ministers building was ripped down, his athletes’ village for the Asian Games, a similar but up market residential block just a stone’s throw away known as “The Grey Building”, was “restored”: i.e was knocked down and rebuilt into an ugly block that looks like a garment factory. Molyvann says of this destruction that an architect doesn’t expect to outlive his work. I feel lucky to have the chance to document Building while it’s still here.

Alnoor Dewshi

Anna-Louisa Psarras and Sandra Lauckner-Rothschild on the road; Kampuchea Women’s Welfare Action

Friday, December 10th, 2010

10th December

IMG_0651We leave our Apocalypse Now Guest house bright and early and speed further into the remote countryside to Sre Sdow village and a meeting with Yous Thy, the Director of the Kampuchea Women’s Welfare Action and her team. A chicken runs round the table again and again and again throughout the meeting as though dosed with amphetamines.

Yous and her team are lovely, amenable and clearly doing wonderful work. But today we are not able to overcome the language barrier and we leave the meeting without the detailed understanding we hoped for. What a great shame.

As we drive away, the journey back to Phnom Pehn seems endless. We are tired now after a week on the road. After three hours or so, our driver unexpectedly screetches to an emergency stop. He reverse backwards down a vertical drop. All we can see is the mighty Mekong at the bottom of the drop. Sandra and I scream STOP STOP STOP! He continues to reverse unabaited. Suddenly we see a rusty boat. We reverse on to the boat and realise that we are to cross the Mekong to reduce the 4 and a half hour return journey by half an hour or so.

As we cross the Mekong, we reflect on our trip. It has been interesting in many ways. There have been excitements, lessons and disappointments along the way. But mostly, we have been struck by the many and brave efforts of people to help their neighbours to improve their lives  and maximise the opportunities available to them by providing them with the educational opportunities they would otherwise be without.

Five hours later as we arrive in Phnom Pehn (the short cut was not as effective as promised), with culture shock, dazzled by the bright lights and bustle. What a journey it has been.

Anna-Louisa Psarras and Sandra Lauckner-Rothschild in Kampong Cham; Souvann Phoum

Thursday, December 9th, 2010

9th December

IMG_0699We are collected at 8:30 by Sarang Out from Souvann Phoum to spend the day with them visiting schools, community groups and their offices. We are extremely impressed by what we see. Staff are knowledgeable, frank and honest about the challenges they face as well as the successes they have had. The programmes themselves are extremely well run and address the needs of the beneficiaries they serve whether their needs are education, community development or more general support.

The first school we visit looks like any other Cambodian school; it is one storey high and painted the ubiquitous yellow. As we arrive, children swarm to greet us. As we proceed to the classroom however, it is immediately clear that something unusual is going on. Groups of children dressed as animals are loitering outside the classrooms wearing headsets. It is unexpected and we cannot help thinking how hot they must be!

As we proceed to the classroom, the giant animals take centre stage and proceed to give the younger students an educational performance on the dangers of respiratory illness, highlighting the signs and what to do about them. It is an unusual but engaging approach that has the school children gripped.

We proceed to another school where the theme of respiratory illness continues in each of the classrooms. We speak to the Headteacher, teachers and children here and are impressed by the work that is being done, in partnership with the government to educate children about health issues. The Headteacher tells us of the challenges he and the school face. That children attend schools in shifts. That capacity is inadequate to cope with need. Shortages of textbooks and teachers.

We ask about his motivation for becoming a teacher given the low level of salaries and the low investment in Cambodian schools. I am fascinated by his explanations of teaching being a vocation and to hear about his time as a child soldier in the Khmer Rouge. It is impossible to escape Cambodia’s past in the present.

We proceed to lunch and to Souvan Phoum’s offices to speak more about their work and the challenges they face as well as their successes before we go to a community meeting a 30 minute drive away.

As in the schools, the theme of the meeting is respiratory health. Diagrams are pasted all over the walls of the stilted house weIMG_0723visit. The floor is packed with women and children of all ages. Shaven headed old ladies pepper the proceedings. Next to them teenagers and middle aged women gabble excitedly. Babies play with balloons, breast feed and potter about throughout the proceedings. First of all, the convenor is speaking to them about respiratory health; the warnings, the dangers of infection and what to do about it if they believe someone is sick. This then turns into an excited game with girls leaping up and down to the front of the room to paste posters on the wall. It is quite an event! The volume and excitement in the air is high.

Beneath the stilts, more children play. Rice is being prepared. Men smoke. Everything is like any other day. Except the event is special and defines the afternoon in this small community.

The impact of Souvann Phoum’s work is clear to see and we leave the community elated as we proceed to Kratie, 2 hours away for the final night of our roadtrip. We stay in an extraordinary guest house owned by Marlon Brando’s brother in Apocalypse Now. We bolt our doors and fall asleep early ready for our final meeting on the road before our return to Phnom Pehn.

Murray Shanks and Aparna Thadani; Phuti Kamar, Battambang

Wednesday, December 8th, 2010

8th December 2010

cambodia 007Today we travelled (by a circuitous but charming route) to see an organisation called Phuti Kamar and met Chhim Raymong the programme director.  He told us about work that the organisation is involved in: the building of a pilot model school, a community based education project near the border with Thailand, a mobile library service, natural resource management near the Vietnamese border, youth centres around Battambang and a new contract to train and enhance public schools.

Children at Phuti Kamar

Children at Phuti Kamar

We visited two of the youth centres (one right in a village and one in a pagoda) and a number of public schools in the country side where the organisation have been involved.  The youth centres were full of play and fun and screaming children behaving beautifully but exuberantly.

Cambodia Children's Trust

Cambodia Children’s Trust

After lunch we met Tara Winkler at the Cambodia Children’s Trust shop where they sell tee-shirts and jewellery made by the children.  Tara is truly an Australian wonder woman; the details of her story are apparently to be found in graphic form in a documentary made by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation for a series called “Australian Story”.  In a sentence, she single-handedly rescued 14 children from a life of abuse at the hands of a director of an orphanage and looked after them herself for over a year (learning fluent Khmer in the process) and then set up a whole organisation which cares for many more children in various ways and employs 15 full time staff.  And she has bigger plans of all kinds.

Cambodia Children's Trust

Cambodia Children’s Trust

She took us to see the small house where the older boys live and then the main house where    the younger ones live where we watched a little dance performance.  The love and music and charm in all their lives was palpable (and the chickens which the children themselves had wanted to rear ran free!).

Exhaustedly back to the Eastern Block hotel, which we are told by everyone was built with black money, for a swim and a listen to the music which blares incessantly outside and then we go to expat-heaven, Balcony Bar, to eat and drink and hear more and more….

Murray Shanks

Anna-Louisa Psarras and Sandra Lauckner-Rothschild on the road in Cambodia; Cambodian Children’s Advocacy Foundation, Bantey Meas

Wednesday, December 8th, 2010

8th December

IMG_0611The next morning we wake up at 7 and gather our things quickly before speeding off again to spend the morning with the Cambodian Children’s Advocacy Foundation in the Bantey Meas District. They are a small Khmer organisation working in 30 rural communities providing preschool education and medical check ups to children. Their ambitions are high and they deliver a portfolio of projects including community development, pre-school education in villages and early education. Their efforts are admirable but I am concerned that focus on one or two areas would serve their efforts  better.

We clamber back into the car around midday ready to make the 7 hour journey North East to Kampong Cham, making a quick pitstop in Phnom Pehn to have  coffee with Sita enroute. We are extremely excited to be back in the City. It is a disconcertingly, bustling metropolis.

We drive across the Mekong, shadowing its winding spine all the way to Kampong Chang. The countryside grows increasingly rural; the stilted houses, taller; the lotus fields, wider. It is mesmerising.

We bounce about in the back of the car typing on our lap tops in an exhausting attempt to catch up on our notes.

We arrive in Kampong Cham as the sun is setting. We check into our Chinese Hotel. The furniture is enormous. Standing next to it, I feel like a Lilliputian. Exhausted, I melt into my giant bed early, ready for another full day tomorrow.